BARBIEOLDNEWGREENREDO--JUST A GRANNY HAVING FUN WITH DOLLS< DIORAMAS STORIES AND DIY

BARBIEOLDNEWGREENREDO
Showing posts with label modge-podge. Show all posts
Showing posts with label modge-podge. Show all posts

Bagdad Diorama:Painting and Details

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Once I am the throes of creating, I literally forget to take photos. So I'm going to do some closeups with explanations and materials of how I completed this diorama.

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When I reached this point, I knew I was on a 'good' track for completing a cohesive look paying homage to Menzies' original sketches. A certain amount of simplicity mixed with some memorable details and textures became the goal. 

The entrance panel with the 'black doorway' was fashioned from a 1" thick scrap of foam covered in mustard mottled contact paper. With the deep contrast of the black entrance---this would become a defining feature to the story diorama's story and showing there was a city beyond this walls.

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I counted on overhead lighting at the convention to help create shadows and depth from all the textural elements I created. A last minute addition was the rope wood trim--shown on the left which was painted white, then glazed in gray and silver and wiped off, leaving the grooves darker. This was from warped long lengths of wood trim we had purchased for the basement and didn't use.  

The plan was to apply all the extra pieces and trims with double stick tape to the edge of the board and also as another piece in the diorama. I also planned on using long pins to secure anything that wavered stuck into the foam parts of the construction.

I do have to say I used all my painting tricks and treatments in each of the many elements in the city. I stenciled, stamped, glazed and dry brushed layers again and again to create the finishes. 

Surprisingly my list of paints was very short, I'm giving specific brands on products I've found successful---not selling or promoting any item, nor am I reimbursed for my opinions.

White satin acrylic wall paint (I use leftover home project paints whenever I can) 

Black acrylic craft paint and Artist grade acrylic tube paint.

White acrylic craft paint for mixing with other colors of the same (I do buy this by the pint). 

Yellow Ochre (artist tube acrylic) Perk: artist tube acrylics are more intense than craft paints and go farther.

Blue craft acrylic mixed with white and bit of black for a slightly grayed blue

Grays were made from White and black (a bit of ochre or blue added) 

Concrete Gray craft paint

Delta/Ceramacoat Gleams acrylic craft paints---Gold, Silver, and Pearl (Mine are ancient(over 10 years old), I believe Michael's still carries them-excellent coverage and quality)

I also used computer printed papers for the wood side panels in gold tones and grayed tones, these I printed/altered from the computer and of course MP'd onto the painted wood.


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This is the first setup of the set---Here you can see the Battenberg lace treatment on the arched door...I think the MP was not yet dry on the arch lace. Old pieces of new stock lace worked well in many places and covered up seams and irregularities. I also used wedding lace trims to enhance the minaret towers and cover the seams of sticking multiple cardboard tubes together.

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Here you can see the alternate use of the gold, silver and pearl dry brushing on the details. Upside of MP'd surfaces is they are sealed and great for receiving paint and wipe off treatments.

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I did a glazing/wipe off on the tower in the center of the photo--with the doily that created the elaborate window. I then detailed the 'window' in black with a very small brush. 
The minaret on the left has a sewer pipe fitting 'landing' one-third of the way down and a wooden $1 store birdhouse top. Background buildings are faintly suggested on the wall panels, some with a bit of stenciling or free-hand details.  

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The rampart above the doorway really throws shadows which was the goal to add the illusion of depth. The small black door on the right will be the exit from the plastic stairway. Tiny bits of black were used as port-holes to a city beyond. The metallic gold around the entrance was hand painted, this accented a bridge between the light and dark as well as adding dimension. 

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The 1"x6" wood board on the left is mustard gold and treated the same as the base. The three part paper motif is MP'd on in golden tones. This is where I'm placing my information on the movie, as well as providing a solid place (at the top) to screw in a cup hook to hang the wires to the flying carpet.

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The wood 1x6 panel on the far right outside is done in gray and silver...same print done in gray tones. On the top of this piece (4 inches higher than the other is the second cup hook for the carpet wire.)

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I worked hard to balance out the color to make a background that would be interesting and yet not detract from the characters in the movie. The plan is to use some darker fabrics and accents in the doll's costumes to provide interest.

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I re-used the paper print on the right from center distant tower. I added a few more accents later.

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The stair base was stenciled in a tile pattern which was also used above the arch wall and rampart. A larger tile stencil used on the wall behind the main tower, along with some more wood rope trim. The lace accents were brushed in metallics to show the details.
Hint: Whenever you add motifs, color or details, echo them throughout your design/room in some way. 

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Quitting was the hardest part. 
Always quit before you think you are done...!

Last thing---testing for Black and White by transforming photos to black and white.

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Here's where I decided to up the details and contrast a bit here and there! And I forgot to add the silver staircase...Laters! 

Painting Techniques Used and Defined:

Stencil---to apply paint in a daubing motion with a brush or sponge through a cut out stencil. When removing the stencil (when paint is wet) completely clean before using stencil again. Less is more in this technique to keep seepage to a minimum.

Dry-Brushing---to dip a firm brush in paint and then daub into paper toweling until only a dusting of paint is left to brush back and forth. Apply to textured or grained already painted/sealed surfaces. Used to highlight textured surfaces. I used metallics to enhance surfaces and also give a sheen on the domes.

Glazing or Staining: Mix 1/3 sealer with 2/3 paint apply to a textured surface and wipe excess away--leaving accents within the texture. The sealer extends the paint and gives it a translucent quality. Used on the lace/doily finishes. Gel paints are also sold specifically for this technique.

I'll be happy to answer any questions on specifics. 
Thanks for following along.

NEXT: Dolls, Characters, Costumes...oh MY!

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Grand View (Grand Hotel) Lighting Upgrade

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Hi, I'm sure you have enjoyed all the photos of Jacquie's Salon, the lobby and Sindy's Patisserie in the ground floor of the Grand View (Mattel rehabbed Grand Hotel). Well part of all that ambiance was lighting. I thought going battery power would be cheaper than electric lighting. NOT SO! 

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Here are all the lights I had in the ceiling. Those great press lights that hook up with magnets to the ceiling(sometimes)...totally eat batteries. I had hedged at spending $40-ish dollars for plug in permanent lighting. Thinking that temp or battery would be sufficient to do the 5 foot by 20" grand hotel. Lots of light comes down the atrium lobby, but all this wasn't really enough, especially when I had to turn on 8 switches each time and turn them off again when done. The homemade hanging lamps are still great, but I may choose to change those also.

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Here is the Hotel emptied and the walls pulled off (I use velcro to attach them) and open when I need to take photos or work inside.

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I had bought this LED light tape with clips---that actually changed colors after Christmas. The directions said you could make 1" diameter turns? and apply with the sticky backing.

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Here's the tape...a nice bright light---16 feet, but...turning corners when lying flat wasn't possible even a 30 degree turn wasn't possible, it kinked horrible. And, someone had stolen all the clips from the box, and the sticky back stuff didn't work at all, 
despite a smooth clean surface.
I totally canned that solution. I can use them somewhere else outside! 


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Here I am trying to figure out if I could mount it to the sides. Totally not workable.
There are lots of flexible strips on the market---for me---this did not work at all. It is flexible around things, but lying flat not! 

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I dismantled the hotel central pillars and removed the rest of the jointed second floor. Normally I like to leave as much of an original structure as possible. But I hacked and sawed all the rest of the second floor off, just leaving the small strips of original  floors attached to the front to place the fitted wood floor over. Support wise, I don't need any pillars, they were just decorative.

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We had used a larger set of  IKEA lighting for the Grand's dollhouse here:
It had been very successful and is still working 5 1/2 years later.

It was 4 weeks before I got to IKEA, they don't ship lighting except with like an entire kitchen order, and covid kept me away from making the trek. I bought three sets of 3pc. Ledberg lighting. Which is in 11" straight pieces in that you can use 1, 2, or 3 pieces together. Nice thing is there are no exposed parts and they have screw in clips which are very secure. There are several different types of cabinet lighting sets, choose what works best for you.

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Here is a closeup of the clips. Easy to pull out also.

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Lots of cord between fixtures...and switches. 

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The atrium hole is in the back center. I have always planned on finishing molding around the atrium hole, and that will be next.

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Removing the pillar block supports was pretty easy I just twisted them off and then tipped over the whole structure and removed the screws.

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Here you can see the plastic floor supports along the front wall where the floor is fitted over.

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I had to test the lighting. I think this works well. Not too bright! but definitely fills the space. PS---the lighting for this floor cost about $30.00...less than 4 years ago. 

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Here's from the other end---that's a lot of tile...luckily I saved a couple of sheets from the doing the orginal floors.


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The color had mellowed a bit since they were applied.

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I fitted like six tile images over the holes which I cleaned and wiped with alcohol. Good old modg-podge, wrinkled but then shrunk out when dried.


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You can see a slight variance in color---but a coating of sealer will add just a bit of yellowing to make it match exactly.

I'm so glad to have this done, and when the hotel is put back together it will be great. I have some moldings to change. I really need the room in the workroom right now, so it will be packed a way for a month or so, so I can catch up with other projects.

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Stay tuned! 

What sort of lighting 
do you use for your dolls? 

PS. I am not advertising the products I use, I simply state a name brand because I actually like and use the product. I have not received any payment, gratuity, or product for using the products shown.


Thanks for viewing and feel free to ask me any questions or inquiries, and I will get back to you.